Archives: Ingredients

How to Make a Fool (Out of Fruit, Not Yourself)

Easy Fruit Fools

strawberries and cream

Fools are an English dessert that very simply combine fruit and cream. Older English texts describe a more involved dessert with the addition of eggs and flavorings, such as lemon peel, wine or spices. Gooseberry fool was quite popular, but that is a hard-to-come-by fruit for most and luckily, the technique of folding together sweetened fruit puree and lightly whipped cream lends itself to all kinds of other fruit, particularly berries.

This are an easy recipe, exemplified by this simple description found in an old text for a strawberry fool:

Hull 1 to 1 ½ pints ripe strawberries and sieve them (there is no need to cook them). Stir about ½ cup sugar (or to taste) into the purée, and add a drop or two of lemon juice to accent the flavor. Combine with whipped cream.

Note that the amount of whipped cream is not given. Basically you want a nice balance of cream and fruit, with the pretty color from the fruit swirled – ribboned, if you will – throughout the cream.

You could use a blend of fruit but I think these simple desserts are best showcasing one special fruit when it is at its most ripe. Also, why complicate a dessert that is so easy to put together, even at the last moment after a trip to the farmer’s market? Check out our Strawberry Fool for a more complete recipe.

 Image: Peter Muka

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Freeze-Dried Fruit

Learn How to Incorporate Freeze Dried Fruit Into Your Baked Goods

freeze dried fruit

Banana bread and raisin oatmeal cookies are perhaps the most common baked goods in our repertoire that, respectively, feature fresh fruit and dried fruit. We reach for these fruits, and others like them, often when coming up with ideas for desserts or preparing them – think strawberry shortcake, upside-down pineapple cake, fruitcake, etc.

But what about freeze-dried fruit? These fruits are fairly new on the scene and are mostly marketed and packaged as snack foods, but why not incorporate them into desserts? Like naturally dried fruit, nothing is added and what you are left with is a delicious, concentrated version of the fresh fruit, often with the color brilliantly preserved, as with the case of raspberries as seen above.

Freeze dried fruit can be pricey, and it is usually found in well-stocked natural food stores or on-line (not an everyday grocery store) but they can enhance your sweets in ways that other fruit cannot.

First of all, freeze-dried fruit has such concentrated color and flavor that it is uniquely positioned to add those qualities to granola, as an add-in for cookies or cakes or used as decoration on a cake or candy. The process also preserves nutrition benefits. In fact during the freeze-dried process water is removed naturally, no chemicals are involved, and nothing artificial is added. What you are left with is a very pure fruit product.

One of my favorite ways is to use freeze-dried raspberries as a crumbled topping for chocolate-raspberry truffles. The color instantly signals “raspberry”, the flavor enhances the chocolate/raspberry truffle center and the texture even offers a little crunch and contrast. These organic raspberries, above image lower right, are from Nature’s All Foods and come in a zip top package. Strawberries are shown top left.

GoVida Lychee2

Some companies are freeze-drying more exotic fruit, such as the Lychee from GoVida, seen above. I love lychee as a fruit and as a flavor but don’t come across them that often in fresh form. These freeze dried lychee come in a .6-ounce package that is equivalent to 1 cup of fresh fruit (great for snacking on the go) and even have a fortune inside as a nod to their Chinese heritage. The purple fruit in the top image are GoVida Dried Apples with Maqui Berry, a very potent antioxidant. The color and flavor are unique.

Try freeze-dried blueberries in muffins if fresh aren’t available, or how about freeze-dried apples as a flavor booster for an apple cake? Using them in conjunction with the same fresh or dried fruit is a way to add levels and dimensions of flavor that are not attainable otherwise.

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All About Gelatin

Learn All About Gelatin: Powdered, Sheet and Leaf

unflavored-gelatin

The first thing to know is that there is powdered unflavored gelatin and then there is sheet gelatin, sometimes referred to as leaf gelatin. You may have never seen sheet gelatin, and this is because it is mostly used in commercial kitchens. Pros like it because it yields a clearer end product with a very pure (nonexistent) flavor and also because you will never end up with any un-dissolved granules. I don’t use it because there are many different kinds and strengths so when you see a recipe that says “1 gelatin sheet” or “1 sheet of gelatin” it isn’t giving you enough information for success. One the other hand, if “1 tablespoon unflavored powdered gelatin” or “one, .25 ounce package of unflavored powdered gelatin” is called for, you know what to use. I will discuss both types, but we use Knox Unflavored Powdered Gelatine in the Test Kitchen. (Knox uses the “e” on the end, by the way).

 

General Gelatin Tips

  • What is gelatin made from? It is indeed made from animal bones, skin, hides and connective tissues, although hooves are said not to be used, usually pig or cow, and sometimes fish. These sources are used for their collagen. (A favored vegetarian alternative is agar agar).
  • If a recipe uses the term “bloom”, as in “first bloom the gelatin in ¼ cup of water”, it simply means soften. That is how you, the home cook, will most often see the term used. If it says, “use gelatin with 190 Bloom strength”, it is talking about how firm the setting power is, and this is usually mentioned in professional recipes.
  • Powdered gelatin and sheet gelatin are not easily substituted for one another, since there are many different kinds of sheet gelatin.
  • The longer a dish set with gelatin is refrigerated, the stiffer it becomes. This is why a jelled dessert might be smooth and slick and have a pleasant mouthfeel on days one and two but by days three and four it is rubbery.
  • Certain fruits contain enzymes that will prevent gelatin from setting firmly. Avoid pineapple, kiwi and papaya, however, heating these first (if they are in the form of juices) will destroy the enzymes making them safe for use with gelatin.
  • Never freeze or boil gelatin; it destroys the setting power. Occasionally a dessert is set in the freezer briefly and that’s okay, or if the gelatin is very small part of the ingredients, such as a little added to a sorbet mixture, it is fine.

Powdered Gelatin Info

  • Follow what a recipe calls for. If it says “1 envelope” or “1 package” or “1 packet” it is probably referring to the quarter-ounce envelopes of unflavored powdered gelatin, such as Knox brand.
  • If the recipe says “2 teaspoons”, then measure it out. Although the average amount of gelatin in a quarter-ounce envelope is 2 ¼ teaspoons, it is not standardized by volume and can vary widely.
  • However, if a recipe says “1 ½ envelopes” what do you do? I would assume 2 ¼ teaspoons per envelope and do the math from there. And use proper measuring spoons!
  • Always soften, or bloom, gelatin first. Place a small quantity (¼ cup liquid per envelope, for example) of cold liquid in a small saucepan and slowly and evenly sprinkle powdered gelatin over the top. Allow to sit for at least 5 minutes, and then melt slowly and thoroughly over low heat, whisking well. I like to dip my finger in the mixture to be able to “feel” that all the granules are melted.
  • As soon as gelatin is bloomed and melted in liquid, incorporate the mixture into the rest of your ingredients. If it is not incorporated while warm, ropes and strands of set gelatin might develop in the finished dish.
  • 1 envelope of powdered gelatin will set 2 cups of liquid – not a soft set or an ultra-firm set, but a medium set.
  • Sometimes I use less gelatin for a soft set dessert served in glasses or goblets because I want a very smooth, soft mouthfeel.
  • If I am going to unmold a dessert, it may very well call for a higher proportion of gelatin.

Sheet Gelatin Info

  • Sheet or leaf gelatin comes in different strengths. Labels will have language such as “Silver Strength/160 Bloom” of “Gold Grade 190 Bloom”. One cannot be substituted 1 to 1 for one another.
  • If a recipe very specifically calls for “1 sheet silver gelatin”, then use that. And if they specify a brand, use it! This will give you the best results.
  • Sometimes sheet gelatin is called for my weights, such as “2 gms sheet gelatin”. In this case all bets are off because 2 gms of a silver strength sheet gelatin will gel differently from 2 gms of gold strength.

 Image: Dédé Wilson

 

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How to Pit Cherries

How to Pit Cherries with Household Tools

pitting cherries with chopstick

Eating cherries and spitting out the pits is one way to remove the pits but when we are making pie or fruit salad we need to get those pits out of the way in a cleaner, more organized way.

There are machines, some semi-automated like the one below, which attaches with a clamp

semi-automatic cherry pitter

and some are a small hand tool, like the one below in the following 2 images.

cherry pitter 1

cherry pitter 2

But what if you don’t have any kitchen gadgets? Never fear, you can still get those pits out! For all of these techniques, begin with fresh cherries, sour or sweet, with stems removed. For the techniques that involve inserting something (straw, chopstick, etc.) insert through the stem end.

  • Straw – the key here is you need a sturdy plastic straw in the standard width. If you have a hard plastic commuter beverage cup that came with one of those extra-sturdy plastic straws, those are even better. Insert through the stem end of the cherry, press, and the straw will push the pit out the other side.
  • Chopstick – this works the same as the straw above and the trick to this one is to use a chopstick with a broad base, not a pointy end. The typical wooden disposable ones work well. See the top image for this approach.
  • Chef’s Knife – gently smash the side of the berry under the broad side of the knife until the fruit splits open. Pick out the pit with knife tip or fingertip and repeat.
  • Pastry Tip – place a plain round pastry tip on your work surface, tip side up. We like to use a Wilton #12. Press the cherry stem end down on top of the tip and the cherry should slide down while the tip brings the pit up out of the top.
  • Paper Clip or Hairpin – open one end of a paper clip so that you have a “U” bend accessible. The hairpin already has this shape. Insert this “loop” into the cherry, pressing in past the pit, then maneuver it over the pit and pull back through the insertion hole. The “U” should grab the pit.

In general, for any of the tips above except the chef’s knife, try performing the technique either over a bowl to catch the fruit or on a paper towel lined work surface to sop up any juice so as not to stain your cutting board.

Images: Dédé Wilson

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Easy Chocolate Curls

Make Chocolate Curls with a Vegetable Peeler

small chocolate curls 1

I like chocolate in my desserts, under and on my desserts. The easiest way to make chocolate curls is with a block of chocolate and a vegetable peeler. It is all about having a sharp peeler and a block of chocolate that is the right temperature. Too cold and the chocolate will shatter; too warm and you won’t get curls.

small chocolate curls

To make the nice little, tight curls as seen in the image above the chocolate should be at warm ambient room temperature, then you simply use the peeler to scrape off curls from narrow side of the chocolate. A wider surface will make wider curls; your choice.

  • Use a large block of chocolate, at least 3 or 4 ounces in size. You cannot get a good grip of a smaller piece and even though you might not use all of it, you need size to hold it steady so that you can then draw the peeler across the surface.
  • Practice with white or milk chocolate, which are softer and easier to work with. Darker chocolates are harder in texture and the curls will shatter more easily.
  • The great majority of the time the chocolate is too cold. Place the block on a plate and zap in microwave for a few seconds, check it by making a test swipe with the peeler, then zap again if needed.
  • Tiny curls like the ones pictured melt easily. Have a small bowl ready to catch the curls as they fall away from the block of chocolate. Do not touch the curls with your fingers! Use a spoon to scoop them up to sprinkle on top of your desserts.
  • Make more than you need and freeze in an airtight container until needed. Will last for months.

PS: Our 13 year-old intern Sofia made the curls shown and she had never done it before! It’s easy if you follow the tips! You can do it.

Image: Dédé Wilson

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What is Kaiserschmarren? Lessons in the Spago Kitchen

Bring Austria Into Your Kitchen with Kaiserschmarren

kaiserschmarren

Crèpes might be familiar, but maybe you have never had a sweet omelet. These can be a foreign idea (literally) for an American, but consider for a moment, the ingredients. They begin, of course, with the freshest of eggs, which are featured in many a rustic dessert as they are easy to find and inexpensive. They also add a flavor and structural quality to desserts that no other ingredient can match. Once a cook has eggs, making an omelet is very straightforward. A little butter and some seasonings are really all you need. For a dessert omelet, sugar is the “seasoning”. Dessert omelets can be as simple as an omelet made in the traditional manner, folded, then brushed with melted butter and sprinkled with sugar, perhaps then briefly run under a broiler to caramelize the sugar. But there are more elaborate versions that are quite interesting as a dessert, even to the American the palate.

Take the kaiserschmarren, for instance. This is an Austrian sweet omelet that has found fame at none other than Spago Beverly Hills. I had the good fortune to work in the Spago kitchen for an evening with Sherry Yard, their former pastry chef, or Pastry Wench, as her chef’s coat proclaims. It happened, believe it or not, by accident. I had landed at LAX mid-afternoon, and coming from the east coast, I was already a bit “off” due to the length of the flight and time change. The plan was for me to drive directly to Spago to interview Sherry for an article. When I got there, she invited me to get into the kitchen to work alongside her and her staff. This seemed like a splendid idea as all of the basic background questions that I would need to ask could be done by phone at a later date. This hands-on approach would afford me the opportunity to truly observe from the inside of one of our nation’s most famous kitchens and make mental notes for the article that couldn’t be gleaned any other way.

After donning a chef coat I was given the most basic of tasks, which I was more than happy to carry out – filling tart molds with dough, portioning ingredients and the like. At some point Sherry asked me to attend to a mountain of strawberries. They were solid red through and through with a fragrance that broadcast their full-flavor. Their perky green tops had not had the chance to loose any color or moisture and my guess is that they had never been refrigerated. In fact, they had been on the vine early in that day or at most, the day before. She asked me to remove the stems and slice the berries for a signature dessert of Spago, one that Wolfgang Puck had brought from his Austrian homeland – kaiserschmarren. I had never heard of it before but Sherry assured me that it was one of their most requested desserts and would never leave the menu as it was a perfect example of flavor-rich, honest food, which is what Wolfgang insisted upon.

I attended to the berries, discarding the stems and slicing the fruit. At one point Sherry admonished me as I was removing a bit too much fruit with the stem. Her point was not only that the flesh was being wasted but that the organic shape of the berry was also being lost and she wanted all of its natural beauty to remain intact. She, of course, was right.

The kaiserschmarren itself uses basic ingredients: butter, sugar, flour and eggs. Yolks are whisked with a bit of sugar and flour. Whites are whipped separately and folded in. Butter is melted in a pan and the sweet omelet mixture is poured in and baked. At this point, it is essentially a souffléed open-faced omelet. The omelet is turned out and topped with a sauce that combines cooked and raw strawberries, another rustic technique of enhancing flavors. It is served whole, one to a diner, each one with its own rough-hewn, unique shape. The sauce draping over the whole brings color and flavor. The effect is one of sweet, satisfying, comfort food. There is no need for extraneous garnish or precision plating techniques. This dessert is all about the eggs and the berries.

Initially I was surprised that such a rustic dessert would be on the Spago menu, but rustic food never goes out of style. No matter where you live, how famous you are, or how much money you have to spend, if a meal presents the best and freshest ingredients in ways that highlight and enhance those foods, you will be rewarded with a stellar culinary experience.

My assumptions about Spago Beverly Hills could not have been more wrong. Given the star power of the chef, locale and clientele, I had always assumed that the food would be secondary to the “see and be seen” factor. The night after my brief kitchen shift I was invited to dine in the restaurant the following evening. Course after course (five hours worth) brought pure, clean flavors. Nothing was overly done. Everything was prepared with an exactitude that preserved whatever inherent flavor or texture was at hand. The crab tasted as fresh as the sea. The lamb was tender and fully flavored while still delicately nuanced, which is so often lost with this meat. Everything from the bread to the desserts was presented with such integrity intact, I could only describe this food as rustic at its heart. And of course I sampled the kaiserschmarren. Tender and eggy, sweet, but not overly so, with a berry sauce as bright as the freshest fruit – this is a rustic dessert par excellence.

I highly recommend that you try the kaiserschmarren while berries are at their best. It is easy to make, with readily available ingredients and works fabulously after a light meal or for a brunch. Bring a little Austria via Beverly Hills into your kitchen!

 Image: Peter Muka

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Melting Chocolate with Other Ingredients

melting chocolate with butter

Sometimes a recipe calls for melting chocolate all by itself, but just as often you will see chocolate melted with butter or sometimes even liquid, such as cream or a liqueur. Here is what you need to know to make sure that your chocolate melts to a silky-smooth consistency.

  • Always make sure your chocolate is finely chopped, be it dark, milk or white.
  • If butter or cream is being melted with the chocolate, make sure it is room temperature. Butter should be cut into small pieces. You want to help the chocolate and butter melt at the same rate.
  • In the Test Kitchen, we use the microwave all the time for melting chocolate and butter or cream at 50% power. Microwaves vary in power, so start at 50% or Medium power in 15-second increments until you have a feel for your machine. Remove from microwave when chocolate is partially melted and whisk until smooth. Always remember there will be residual heat.
  • Unlike melting chocolate by itself, where we do not like to use the microwave for milk or white chocolate, when we are melting these chocolates with butter or cream, we will often use the microwave. If you have issues with these chocolates burning, use a lower power or switch to a stove-top method.
  • You can melt chocolate and butter or cream over or in a water bath as well. Again, remove when chocolate is about three-quarters of the way melted and whisk off heat until smooth and combined with other ingredient.
  • Chocolate can be melted with water or liqueur, but there must be enough of the liquid to melt the chocolate and not seize it. Eight ounces of chocolate with ¼ cup liquid can work. Less liquid than that and you will run the risk of the chocolate seizing into a mass.
  • In general, don’t rush any technique you use. Melt the chocolate and its associated ingredient slowly and gently and you will have success.

Image: Peter Muka

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Maple Syrup Grades & Comparisons

maple-syrup-comparisons

We love baking with maple syrup, and as Lauren mentions, the grade of syrup will affect the flavor of your baked goods. There are maple syrups that are as pale as the lightest honey and some so dark and rich that they look like molasses. I am lucky enough to live in New England and often have an array at my disposal. Some supermarkets might just carry one type of pure maple syrup, but if you have a choice, a tasting might be in order. You will be surprised at the differences.

By the way, you are buying pure maple syrup, right? No “pancake syrup” or “breakfast syrup” allowed! Read the label. There shouldn’t be any corn syrups or flavorings. Just maple syrup.

The cost of pure maple syrup reflects the cost of the raw ingredients and the labor-intensive production. It takes almost 40 gallons of raw syrup tapped directly from the trees to boil down into 1 gallon of syrup that finds its way to your table.

Canada produces far more maple syrup than the U.S. (some statistics say 80% of the world’s source) and they currently have different grading systems.  In Canada there are three grades, and some sub-grades:

  • Canada Grade #1:
    • Extra Light, sometimes referred to as AA
    • Light (A)
    • Medium (B)
    • Canada Grade #2 called Amber (C)
    • Canada Grade #3: called Dark (D)

In the U.S., there have always been two broad categories:

  • Grade A with subcategories
    • Light Amber
    • Medium Amber
    • Dark Amber
  • Grade B

As of 2014, there is a new grading system being implemented by the Vermont Maple Sugar Makers Association, as seen in the chart below. Take careful note of the old system on the right and the new wording and designations on the left.

maple-syrup-grading-comparison-chart

They hope to install this new system across the U.S. and Canada, but it will take a few seasons for a complete transition. The problem, as the producers saw it, was that Grade B always sounded like it wasn’t as good as Grade A, but in reality, it is just as pure and delicious – it just has a different flavor profile. Maple syrup, by the way, is graded by color. The new grades will reflect color and flavor.

I actually prefer the punch and intensity of Grade B, which will now be the equivalent of the Grade A – dark color with robust taste. In baking, the syrup’s flavor is tempered by butter and eggs and flour and such, so I almost always use a darker syrup. Familiarize yourself with the new system so you will know what you are buying, and again, read the labels and always buy pure maple syrup.

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Buying Vanilla Beans

vanilla beans in jar

Every one of you reading this tip probably has a bottle of vanilla extract in your pantry. Vanilla beans are a whole other matter. They are pricey and not something we just keep around on hand; however, when we want to make a standout vanilla crème brûlée or vanilla-scented pound cake, then its time to reach for a bean.

Image: Dédé Wilson

Just like other beans we are fond of, namely coffee and cacao beans, vanilla is an agricultural product – an orchid, actually – with a flavor that varies due to its country of origin; specific microclimates, soil, harvesting and manufacturing methods; and, of course, its species. (Fun fact: The vanilla plant is the only edible fruit-bearing orchid.) Here, I will discuss two different types: Vanilla planifolia and Vanilla tahitensis.

Vanilla planifolia Vanilla beans

Image: Peter Muka

Most quality vanilla extract is made from Vanilla planifolia, above, grown in Mexico as well as the Bourbon Islands of Madagascar: Réunion, Mauritius, Comoro and Seychelles, which are southeast of Africa. When you see the term “Bourbon vanilla” or “Madagascar Bourbon,” the reference is to the locale and has nothing to do with bourbon liquor.

Mexican vanilla beans have been described as a blend of sweet and spicy flavors with a creamy quality. Madagascar Bourbon beans are characterized by their sweet aroma and flavor – this is your “all-purpose” vanilla and what most of us think of when we think of vanilla as a flavor. Mexican and Bourbon vanilla are very versatile and can be used in both savory as well as sweet applications, in everything from cookies to cakes to ice cream to delicate soufflés and spicy salsas.

Tahitian-vanilla-beans

Image: Dédé Wilson

Vanilla tahitensis, above, as you might guess from the name, hails from Tahiti and is very different and more rare. Tahitian vanilla is characterized by a very strong floral note and some say a fruity one as well. The beans tend to be pricier and harder to source, but if you love vanilla, then you owe it to yourself to get some Tahitian beans and experiment.

Vanilla bean comparison: Vanilla tahitensis vs. Vanilla planifolia
Vanilla tahitensis, top; Vanilla planifolia, bottom.

Image: Peter Muka

Now, we know that many people think of vanilla as a background flavor. After all, we add vanilla extract to just about everything we bake, so it is easy to see how one could relegate vanilla to a supportive role. Perhaps this is because you have yet to play with beans. While extract can pack a punch, it is almost like saying you know coffee when all you have had is coffee from the gas station. The elegance, nuance and depth that a vanilla bean can bring to your baked goods is extraordinary and well worth the expense.

Vanilla bean seeds

Image: Peter Muka

When buying beans, there are a few certain things to know to get the most for your buck:

  • Buy from a reputable source. We use Nielsen-Massey beans in our Test Kitchen.
  • Look for plump, supple and fragrant beans that are very dark brown, almost black.
  • Good beans will be shiny from the oils that provide their flavor. If they are brittle or dull, do not purchase.
  • Mexican and Bourbon beans will be smaller than Tahitian.
  • Look for beans that have been stored at cool room temperature in airtight packaging to preserve freshness.
  • Vanilla beans should never be refrigerated (as this can encourage mold), nor should they be frozen.
  • Crystals may form on high-quality beans, which are indicative of the high natural vanillin content. (Vanillin is the natural aromatic compound in vanilla that contributes significantly to its flavor.) Use as you would any bean.
  • To determine need, 1 whole bean = 1 tablespoon vanilla extract or vanilla bean paste.
  • To use: Slit the bean lengthwise with a sharp paring knife, then use the dull side to scrape out the vanilla seeds (see above photo).
  • The seeds are usually what are called for in a recipe, but do not discard the bean pod. Make Vanilla Sugar.

 

Vanilla-seeds-extreme-closeup

Image: Peter Muka

For more information on vanilla’s agricultural history, visit Nielsen-Massey.

The beans in our images were provided by Nielsen-Massey.

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How to Tell if Baking Powder is Still Good

how to tell if baking powder is still good

I learned the hard way that baking powder doesn’t last forever. When I had my bakery, I ordered a gigantic can of the stuff. It must have held the equivalent of 50 cups, and even though we were baking daily for retail sales, it lost its effectiveness before we used it up.

Many factors come into play – moisture and temperature being key. Most brands suggest a six-month (perhaps a year) shelf life, so if you don’t bake a lot, chances are your tin has been hanging around your pantry for a while and should be replaced. As far as storage is concerned, most baking powders come in a tin that can be sealed airtight and they work quite well – as long as you seal the tin well after use. Also, always use a dry spoon in the container, then store in a cool location, such as a cabinet, but not the one over the stove.

As for testing the efficacy of your baking powder, it is quite simple. Measure ¼ cup very hot tap water (as hot as you can make it) into a measuring cup. Quickly stir in 1 teaspoon of baking powder and hopefully you will see lots of bubbles and even hear it make a fizzing sound. The bubbles and the sound will cease rather quickly, but if they do appear you are good to go. No bubbles or sound? Toss the tin.

Image: Dédé Wilson

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Not All Milk Chocolate is Created Equal

Milk Chocolate Comparison

I’m going to go out on a limb here and say that I bet, for a lot of people reading this, your first experience with milk chocolate was tasting a Hershey’s Kiss as a child, or maybe it was the milk chocolate inside of M&Ms or coating on a Snickers bar. Milk chocolate was a very sweet affair, almost equally sweet and sugary. Then, chocolate makers began having such success with bittersweet chocolate in the 70%, 80% even 99% cacao range, they decided to take a new look at milk chocolate and bring more cacao to those formulas and rely less on the milk and sugar. Those ingredients would still be present – they wanted a distinct milk chocolate product, after all – but “dark” milk chocolates would be a new breed.

Now we can easily find milk chocolates boasting cacao percentages of 40% and even 70% through specialty distributors, while traditional versions had as little as 10% cacao.

So what is the difference between a 70%-cacao bittersweet chocolate and a 70%-cacao milk chocolate? Mostly the aforementioned milk and sugar. Even if the sugar is kept to a minimum, the dairy will be present, giving the chocolate the right to sport its milky name. And the difference between a milk chocolate with 10% and 40% cacao is that the higher the cacao percentage, the more chocolaty the taste.

Reading labels is easy – if they tell you what you need to know. Valrhona Jivara Lactee states very clearly that this milk chocolate is 40% cacao, but what about that tiny milk chocolate kiss? Or some random bulk chocolate with less-than-precise labeling? Well, as you can see in the image above, you cannot go by color. The Valrhona in back is 40%. The Callebaut left front is 33.6%, while the Hershey’s on the lower right looks as dark as the Valrhona, when in actuality it is 30%. Note that the Hershey’s looks darker than the Callebaut, yet has a lower cacao percentage; this is why looks alone will not suffice. (Hershey’s Kisses are also 30% cacao, by the way. The Hershey’s-branded products do not detail cacao percentage on the label. You have to call customer service.)

We happen to like dark milk chocolates a lot, but as with all recipe testing and development, we take into consideration how the ingredient works within that recipe from taste, texture and visual perspectives and also what palates are we pleasing. If we are making a milk-chocolate-peanut-butter something-or-other geared towards our elementary school-aged kids, then a lower cacao percentage milk chocolate will probably be perfect. On the other hand, if I am making a milk chocolate truffle, I usually reach for a milk chocolate with at least 40% cacao. While a good milk chocolate will have a dairy essence, just as with all chocolates, there will be other aromas and flavors. Some will be reminiscent of caramel, while others will have a hint (or more) of fruit, leather or smoke. Let your palate be your guide; it’s a hard job, but someone’s got to do it.

Here are some milk chocolates we love, with their cacao percentages listed high to low. Try tasting the Slitti Lattenero 70% side by side with a 70% dark chocolate (such as Theo Rich 70% Organic or Valrhona Guanaja) for a fun taste test. You can find all of these chocolates at Chocosphere:

  • Slitti Lattenero 70% cacao
  • Bonnat Java 65% cacao
  • Michel Cluizel Mangaro Lait 50% cacao
  • El Rey Caoba 41% cacao
  • Valrhona Jivara Lactee 40% cacao
  • Guittard Orinoco 38%
  • Callebaut 823 –NV Milk 33.6% cacao
  • Valrhona Tanariva 33% cacao
  • Guittard Old Dutch Milk Couverture 30% cacao

Image: Peter Muka

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How to Choose Citrus

assorted-citrus

Summer has its berries and stone fruits, but the winter months bring us some fabulous citrus that can be as bright and fresh as the fruits we eat during the warmer half of the year. To bring the best produce into our kitchen, we chatted with Robert Schueller of Melissa’s for expert tips on how to choose citrus. Here’s what he had to say:

  • Fragrance is key – Schueller says that fragrance is the most important factor in determining ripeness. Especially for the most commonly purchased citrus (oranges, lemons, limes and grapefruits). A lime should smell like an lime, etc.
  • Color – The exterior skin of lemons, oranges and limes should be rich in the expected color – a lemon should be a rich yellow overall; an orange should be orange. Exceptions would be grapefruits where color is not a good indicator or ripeness.
  • Firmness – Oranges, lemons and limes should be firm to the touch. Tangerines, mandarins and clementines may be a little soft to the touch.
  • Specialty Fruit – Kumquats should be vivid orange and emit a strong fragrance. Buddha’s Hand (left rear of image) and Variegated Pink Lemons (left front of image) should also have a strong aroma, while color in both cases is not as good an indicator. Blood oranges will have a blush of red color on the skin, but how much each fruit exhibits will vary.

You can store citrus at cool room temperature for up to 1 week. For longer storage, refrigerate up to 2 or 3 weeks. The longer they are stored, the more they dehydrate, even in the refrigerator. This last point is why we like to choose fruit that is heavy for its size, since lighter fruit indicates dehydration, less juice and possibly that it isn’t as fresh. This approach has worked in practice in our Test Kitchen.

Tell us if you have some tried-and-true methods for picking citrus in the comments below!

Image: Melissa’s

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Citrus Peel vs. Citrus Zest

Citrus Peel vs. Citrus Zest

In the ingredient lists of some recipes, they will say to add lemon zest (or grated lemon zest) and sometimes it says grated lemon peel. Are these the same? Different? Well, it’s hard to know every author’s intention, but here’s the Bakepedia explanation:

Citrus zest is the outer, colored portion of the fruit – the vivid orange-colored part of a tangerine or an orange; the sunny yellow part of a lemon; the green of a lime, etc. On the right of the image you can see a tangerine that has been “zested”, that is, just the colored zest has been removed. Right beneath the zest  is the white pith. Sometimes the pith is very thick, as with some grapefruit where the pith might be a full ¼-inch thick or more, and it can have a cottony texture. Other times, the pith is very thin and seems to be just under the colored zest and in an equal thinness. Limes are often like this, as are tangerines as shown in the image above on the left. Herein lies the problem, because sometimes just removing the zest is difficult and you seem to get the white pith along for the ride. This would technically, then, be “citrus peel,” as when you peel a citrus fruit, you are removing both the zest and the pith. But in most recipes, what you want is the zest and only the zest. This is because the white pith can be bitter, and in the case of a thick pith, it can be a problematic and unwelcome texture as well. Recipe developers usually want you to have the flavor and pretty color of the zest (orange, yellow, green) and not white flecks of pith.

The issue is that many recipes say peel when they mean zest. They really want you to just add that colored portion, but they didn’t state it clearly. One notable exception is when you make candied citrus peel; you are often utilizing some of the pith and, in this case, it is expected.

The best way to grate citrus zest is to use a Microplane zester. This is a rasp-style grater with very sharp blades that easily remove just the colored zest and leave the pith behind. We find this tool to be as invaluable as a wooden spoon and think every kitchen should have one.

>sub>Image: Peter Muka

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Baking with Specialty Sugars

specialty sugars

Here at Bakepedia we call for sugar in our recipes, which references white granulated sugar. Sometimes called table sugar, granulated is the go-to for most American and European-style baking recipes. Light brown and dark brown sugars come into play often as well, with confectioners’ (powdered sugar) and superfine sugar close behind. For many bakers, this is where their pantry, and experimentation, ends, but there are plenty of granulated specialty sugars that you might have never heard of or played with in the kitchen! We’re talking about evaporated cane juice, also known as natural cane sugar; turbinado sugar, also known as Demerara or the type sold by Sugar in the Raw; sucanat; Muscovado; and fondant and icing sugars (even though some of these may call themselves raw, they are all processed, albeit minimally).

Image: Peter Muka

Evaporated-cane-sugar-demerara-sugar

Image: Dédé Wilson

  • Evaporated Cane Juice – Companies like Bob’s Red Mill, Florida Crystals and Zulka Pure Cane Sugar sell evaporated cane juice or natural cane sugar, and while these products have a very pale tan or light brown color from the remaining molasses naturally occurring in the sugar cane, they are very fine in texture, are quite similar to white table sugar and can be substituted cup for cup. Evaporated cane juice sugar is shown on the left above.
  • Turbinado/Demerara – Sugar in the Raw is a brand that many people are familiar with (it’s the little brown packets at Starbucks), and it is a turbinado or Demerara sugar. Billington’s brand Demerara is on the right in the image above. Also minimally processed, this type has a larger crystal than evaporated cane juice, and retains color and flavor from some molasses content. The larger crystals mean that they will take longer to dissolve – when creaming with butter, for instance – but they can be used as a white-sugar substitute with some changes in outcome, mostly textural.A simple description of the manufacturing process is that the cane juice, which is rich in molasses, vitamins and minerals, is extracted from the plant (pressed out). Solids are discarded, and the cane juice is boiled, evaporated and crystallized. The crystals are then heated and the natural molasses separates out through a process that involves a centrifuge or turbine-like machine – hence the name turbinado. The result is a blonde, natural sugar, which is then washed and steamed. You can see that these sugars are not raw, but they are considered only partially refined.
  • Sucanat – The name stands for sucre de canne naturel (natural sugar cane). This product is whole, unrefined cane sugar. The manufacturer crushes the sugar cane, extracts its juice, heats the juice and reduces it to thick syrup that is hand-paddled, then dehydrates the syrup to forms dry, porous granules. There is nothing added and nothing taken away, which is why many people believe this is a better sugar option. It is a favorite of many vegans and vegetarians as well because bone char is not used in the production of Sucanat, while it is used for refined white sugar. (It also contains trace amounts of iron, calcium, vitamin B6 and potassium.)The molasses aroma and taste of Sucanat is quite noticeable, and it does have a larger granule than white sugar or products like Zulka Morena. While it can be used cup for cup as a white-sugar replacement, it can take longer for the granules to dissolve and sometimes the recipe will need a bit of additional water. This is because Sucanat is drier than white sugar. Wholesome Sweeteners markets Sucanat and their brand representative explained to us, “other sugars are evaporated and crystallized. Sucanat is dehydrated and aerated.” It is a very different process and the result is a unique product.
  • Muscovado – This is a type of cane sugar that is sometimes described as unrefined (Billington’s uses this term, but they are essentially just less refined) and comes in light and dark and shown in our top image. Muscovado sugars are natural brown sugars in the sense that the molasses they contain was never stripped away – some commercial brown sugars are made by re-combining refined white sugar with molasses that had been removed during the refining process. They have a much stronger flavor profile than conventional brown sugars. In the top image you can see conventional light brown sugar in the front on the right and conventional dark brown sugar on the left in the front. Note how this dark brown sugar is more equivalent of the light Muscovado.
    • Light Muscovado: This version is closest perhaps to common dark brown sugar (compare in top image). It has more pronounced molasses flavor than commercial brown sugars and should be used when that strong, natural flavor can be showcased. Try it in a chocolate cake, lighter gingerbreads or spice cake.
    • Dark Muscovado: Also called Barbados sugar. This sugar tastes deeply of molasses with a bitter edge that works well in dark and sticky gingerbreads, barbecue sauce or anywhere you want a rich, pronounced molasses flavor.
  • Fondant and Icing Sugar – This is like super-duper fine powdered sugar, 1/100th of the size of most confectioners’ sugar. It dissolves quite rapidly and creates ultra-smooth fondants and icings based on powdered sugar.

If you are interested in delving even further into the world of specialty sugars you can learn about birch sugar, wasanbon, jaggery, black treacle and more in an illuminating and thorough article by Rose Levy Beranbaum, originally published in FoodArts magazine in 2000. I held onto that hard copy for years, but it is accessible through her blog.

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All About Standard Baking Sugars

standard baking sugars

While working on Baking with Specialty Sugars, it occurred to us that it would be helpful to have an article on the sugars we use everyday, because there is more to sugar than you probably first thought. In this article we will address granulated white sugar, superfine sugar, confectioners’ sugar and both light and dark brown sugar, as we consider these the pantry staples.

  • White Granulated Sugar – Sometimes labeled as fine-granulated (not to be confused with extra-fine or superfine). This is the most commonly called-for sugar in our recipes and we usually use Domino brand, which is made from sugar cane. It is on the extreme left in the image. White sugar can also be sourced from sugar beets, and there is discussion within the professional baking community about whether they are interchangeable. The argument is that although they are almost the same from a chemical standpoint, beet sugar melts and caramelizes differently and therefore is especially problematic for candy makers and confectioners. Some bakers also claim that beet sugar produces a coarser crumb. The chemical differential is said to be around .05%, the variances mainly due to mineral content and the source, but since they are also processed differently, any dissimilarity could stem from that as well. Also note that beet sugar is often genetically modified (while cane is not) and contains sulphites, which can be an issue for those who are sensitive.

    To clarify, if you were to stir a teaspoon of beet or cane sugar into your coffee, we bet you wouldn’t be able to taste the difference. This discussion revolves around the subtle differences that present themselves to the very observant baker and candy maker. In our minds, when you think about the fact that sugar cane grows above ground and sugar beets below and that they are different plants, it doesn’t surprise us that certain variables can become apparent. Both beet and cane sugars can be used to make brown sugar. Read labels. If it says cane sugar or beet sugar, it is that sugar. Unfortunately some companies do not specify, and there are no laws requiring them to do so. We say, pass those by; you won’t know what you are using.

  • Superfine Sugar – Also called bar sugar, extra-fine or caster sugar. This is the finest of the granulated white sugars. It is popular with bartenders, as its fine texture means near-instant dissolving properties, even in cold drinks. This is also why some recipes for meringues call for it; it dissolves within the egg whites more readily than regular granulated. You can put regular granulated sugar in your food processor and grind it to a finer consistency and use it in recipes where superfine is recommended, such as some angel food cakes or meringue recipes. It will lose some of its crystalline sparkle, however, so if you need superfine sugar for its look to coat sugared fruit or candied orange peel, use commercially prepared superfine sugar.

    Many resources will tell you that regular and superfine can be substituted cup for cup. Their density is different, however – more superfine sugar measures into a cup than regular granulated – but many recipes will work with either, although not necessarily giving exact results. This is where trial and error comes in with specific recipes and we leave you to decide on an individual basis.

  • Confectioners’ Sugar – Also called icing or powdered sugar; shown on far right of image. Sometimes the label says “10x,” which refers to the fact that it is 10 times finer than granulated sugar. It also usually has 3% cornstarch added, which some say leaves a raw taste when used in unbaked applications. This can be assessed within sweetened whipped cream. Try one batch sweetened with confectioners’ sugar and another with granulated and taste them side-by-side to see whether your palate is sensitive and which you prefer.
  • Light (also called Golden) and Dark Brown Sugars – Commercially available brown sugars are made one of two ways. (Light brown is second from left in image; dark brown is second from right). If derived from sugar cane, a certain proportion of the molasses that is inherent in the plant may be left in during processing or it may be stripped away and added back to white sugar. The former is referred to as “boiled brown” and the latter is called “painted brown.” If you have heard that brown sugar is refined white sugar that has molasses added back in, that can be true and that is the so-called “painted” version. If it is derived from sugar beets, it is always painted brown.To make things even more interesting (to me, anyway, since I am a sugar nerd) the molasses derived from sugar beets does not taste very good; it is usually sold off for use in animal feed. So, the molasses that is “painted” back onto beet sugar to make brown sugar is indeed molasses that has come from sugar cane production!

    According to sugar-beet-industry experts from Michigan Sugar, the difference in light and dark brown sugars is not necessarily that there is more molasses added to the dark brown, rather that a different blend of molasses is used. There are different grades of molasses made during sugar production, and they will have different sensory profiles that affect color, taste and aroma. Different blends are also used for light and dark.Our recipes will always specify light or dark. If a recipe does not specify, assume light brown. They are interchangeable; however, dark brown will have a more pronounced molasses flavor, a darker color and slightly more moisture. These sugars contain more moisture than regular granulated sugar and that is the reason why they must be packed upon measuring. We firmly pack in our Test Kitchen.

    One problem bakers often encounter is hardened brown sugar. If it is kept in an airtight container, it will retain its moist, packable texture, but if exposed to air, it can become as hard as a rock! We transfer our brown sugar from the bag it is packaged in to glass, airtight containers to prevent this from happening. An old-fashioned approach suggests placing a slice of moist apple or a piece of bread in your container of hard brown sugar, closing it up tight and allowing it to sit over night or for a couple of days. The moisture from the fruit moistens the brown sugar, but the downside here is you would have had to plan ahead. A near-instant way is to lightly moisten a paper towel, seal it up in your container of hard brown sugar and microwave it in 10-second bursts on high power. Depending on the power of your microwave, and how hard your sugar is, this might take up to 30 seconds but probably not more. We like this trick a lot and it works every time. You can also try prevention and use a brown-sugar saver. These are small pieces of terra cotta, often in decorative shapes such as the bears below, that you insert in your brown-sugar storage container after a brief soak in water. They work similarly to the apple, but they can live in your sugar storage indefinitely.

Image: Dédé Wilson
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Making Flavored Hot Chocolate

Flavors-for-hot-chocolate

Chocolate and cream – nothing wrong with that combo, especially when warmed and served in a mug on a cold winter’s day. Hot chocolate is a great classic as is, but what about adding a little flavor to switch things up? Something familiar, perhaps, like peppermint or maybe unexpected like chilies? If you want to get adventurous, here are some ideas for expanding your hot-chocolate repertoire. Start with a basic recipe and consider the following:

  • Tea, coffee or hot chocolate? You don’t have to choose! Combine half a cup of coffee with half a cup of cocoa for a hot mocha or do the same with brewed black tea for a sophisticated hot beverage. Some flavored teas, like Earl Grey, are particularly delightful.
  • Caramel is a hot flavor and a tablespoon of caramel sauce stirred into your hot chocolate is an easy way to liven up your usual hot chocolate recipe.
  • Take a tip from your local coffee house. You know all those syrups that the baristas use? They’re great for hot chocolate, too! Try hazelnut, vanilla, pumpkin spice, almond, even banana or pomegranate!
  • Peppermint and chocolate is a natural pairing and you can achieve a minty cool flavor in a few ways: Stir in peppermint extract to taste, add a shot of crème de menthe or peppermint schnapps, use a peppermint stick as a stirrer, or stir some crushed peppermint candies into your mug.
  • Think about all the classic liqueur-enhanced caffeinated drinks. Why should coffee get all the fun? Try Amaretto, Grand Marnier, brandy, Frangelico or rum, to name a few.
  • Go nuts. Stir in a tablespoon of peanut butter or Nutella into your hot chocolate.
  • Get spicy! A sprinkling of cinnamon or nutmeg on top of your hot chocolate is an easy twist, but how about a pinch of chili powder or cayenne for a little kick? A combo of cinnamon and cayenne is a great duo.

Image: Peter Muka

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Baking with Bananas

stages of ripeness for baking with bananas

That beautiful black-speckled banana in the photo above inspired us to write this tip. That, my friends, is a perfectly ripe banana, ready to be baked up into Banana Bread, Hummingbird Cake  or whatever recipe you have on hand that will highlight the creamy, moist texture and sweet, tropical flavor of this favorite fruit of ours.

As you can see from the picture, bananas do continue to ripen after they are harvested. They are usually shipped to the market green so that they have longevity on the shelf, but at that point they are still mostly starch. As they ripen, the starch converts to sugar and their texture and flavor change, making them perfect for eating, slicing onto cereal or using in baked goods and desserts. That green banana in the picture will take at least 4 days to get to the yellow stage shown by the middle banana, so when you are at the grocery store, plan accordingly.

When baking with bananas, most recipes will tell you in the ingredient list which stage of ripeness is desirable. If the recipe says “very ripe,” then you want those black speckles with absolutely no hint of green; the banana could even be blacker and it would be perfect for this type of recipe, but it should be at least as ripe as shown. If the recipe says “firm but ripe,” then the yellow banana in the picture with no black speckles and a tiny bit of green at the tips would be perfect. This is the right level of ripeness for a sautéed banana dish like bananas Foster, banana pudding or for a banana split sundae. You will rarely see a recipe calling for a green banana. If a dish is looking for that kind of starchiness, it will most likely call for a plantain. By the way, if you find yourself needing a ripe banana for a recipe and your supermarket only has green ones, check smaller Asian markets if you have any nearby. We have great luck finding very ripe bananas on the shelf ready to bake.

As for storage, bananas should be stored at room temperature. If you end up with some very ripe bananas and you know you will be using them within two or three days, place them in the refrigerator to slow down further ripening. The skins will turn black but the flesh will be perfect for your uses. If the bananas are basically at their almost over-ripe stage, peel them and place them in a zipper top freezer bag. These will last in the freezer for at least a month and are perfect for smoothies or recipes that call for mashed bananas, like banana bread. Do not freeze with the skins on. You will be hard-pressed to peel those bananas!

Image: Peter Muka

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How to Reconstitute Chilled Italian Meringue Buttercream

chilled-Italian-meringue-buttercream

Italian meringue buttercream (IMBC) can be made ahead and refrigerated for up to a week or even frozen up to a month, but if it is not used right away when it is nice and creamy, there are a few extra steps you need to take. If the buttercream has been frozen, it should be defrosted in the fridge overnight. Refrigerated buttercream will be quite firm – as hard as a chilled stick of butter as seen above – and cannot be whipped smooth at this point. Follow these instructions to reconstitute it. Once softened, you can spread it smoothly and easily.

softened-Italian-meringue-buttercream

P.S. Although IMBC is made with a balloon whisk, we often use the flat paddle attachment of our stand mixer when we are bringing it back to life. It’s your choice and experience will help you decide which attachment to use. Note that upon reconstituting IMBC, you most likely will lose a little volume.

  • One method is to take the container it is stored in and, if it is microwaveable, place it in the microwave on a very low power and heat in 15 second spurts, assessing softness each time. You want it to be brought to room temperature uniformly without melting the butter. This technique will depend on your familiarity with your microwave. Be patient and it will work.
  • Alternatively, have the bulk of the IMBC in your mixer bowl and microwave a small amount until very soft (too soft), then use it to “seed” the larger batch. The two portions will equalize one another. You might have to play with this technique and nuke a small amount a few times.
  • Another technique is to place a quantity of cold buttercream in the stainless steel bowl of your stand mixer and place it over an extremely low heat on top of the stove. A flame tamer can help immeasurably here, which is a flat disc that goes on top of your burner and reduces the amount of heat that reaches whatever is placed upon it. Hold the bowl with one hand and constantly stir the chunks of buttercream, folding the pieces over each other so that no one piece is constantly on the bottom receiving too much heat. Experience makes a difference here. Once you do this a few times, these instructions will make perfect sense. You want to warm the buttercream, but not melt the butter out. Be careful.
  • A subtler approach to the above is to do it over a water bath.
  • A fifth technique is to place a quantity of buttercream in your mixer bowl and aim a hair dryer on the outside of the bowl, and even directly on top of the IMBC. Watch carefully, and as described above, you want to warm it, not melt it.

After you have warmed up your buttercream, whip it with the flat paddle or balloon whisk until smooth and creamy. Heat again if it is still lumpy; chill if too soupy. It is best to be conservative and heat it slowly than to melt the butter and end up with sweet soup. Your buttercream is now ready to use.

The only time this didn’t work in my 30 years of playing with IMBC was when I had a batch that had been frozen and defrosted a few times. It seemed “tired” and just would not come back together. Other than that, it has worked. Every. Time. We hear people give up too early all the time. The issue is that it is usually still too cold. It will look lumpy and lack creaminess. If any of the above techniques aren’t working, we promise it’s just about temperature. Keep trying. It’s either too cold or too warm. You can do it!

Image: Peter Muka

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